Diesel Air Heater

Three things. First, control: Wi-Fi plus Bluetooth means you can run the heater from anywhere with internet, not just within Bluetooth range. Second, the remote control doubles as a carbon monoxide detector and a wireless thermostat. Third, the hardware: a silent oil pump plus quick-connect ducts and exhaust, so assembly needs no tools and the unit runs quieter.

Both. It is widely used in trucks, RVs, camper vans, boats, garages, cabins, workshops and tents. The toolbox design and the AC 110-240V power supply make it equally usable off the vehicle

Diesel only. Do not run petrol, kerosene, gasoline or waste oil, as this will damage the unit and void your coverage.

It suits truck cabs, RVs and campervans, trailers, boat cabins, garages and ducted heating for tents —
provided there is a flat, load-bearing, vibration-damped mounting surface, the unit is shielded from direct rain
and mud spray, and exhaust can be routed safely outside. Never use it in bedrooms or any sealed space
without exhaust routing.

A standard kit includes the mounting bracket, wiring harness, metering pump, fuel line, exhaust pipe,
combustion air pipe and warm-air ducting, so a confident DIYer can fit it using the manual.

Wire it directly to the battery with an inline fuse and cable thick enough for the start-up surge. The glow plug
draws roughly 10–12A briefly at start-up, settling to about 1–3A once running. If the voltage at the heater sags
below roughly 11.4V (12V model) during a start attempt, it will usually fail to ignite. For overnight use, run it
from a leisure/auxiliary battery and always reserve enough charge to start the engine.

Yes. A dedicated standpipe/take-off fitting is normally used so the original fuel system is not compromised,
or you can run from the unit's own tank (commonly 5L or 10L, depending on model). When drawing from the
main tank, keep the level above a quarter to avoid drawing air, which causes flame-out or failed starts.

Air in the fuel line is the most common cause on a new or long-stored unit. Check fuel level, fuses and every
connector first, then attempt several starts as the manual directs so the metering pump can deliver fuel to the
combustion chamber. If it still will not light, follow the manual priming (manual pump) procedure. Do not crank
repeatedly without a cool-down interval.

No. Continued fan operation after shutdown is the normal cool-down and purge cycle that removes residual
heat from the combustion chamber; it usually lasts a few minutes. Cutting power immediately traps heat,
promotes carbon build-up and makes the next start harder.